(It’s also based on the food he serves at Avec.) Each of the 13 chapters concentrates on one directive - Roast Some Roots, Braise a Pork Shoulder, Make a Simple Dessert - and offers a master recipe with inspired seasonal riffs. This is the kind of food Kahan and his wife serve by the platter at their Wisconsin cabin: dishes that allow them to hang out in the kitchen with guests, snacking on salumi and pouring wine. He’s corrected course brilliantly with COOKING FOR GOOD TIMES: Super Delicious, Super Simple (Lorena Jones/Ten Speed, 277 pp., $35), written with Rachel Holtzman and Perry Hendrix, the chef de cuisine at his Mediterranean/Midwestern restaurant, Avec. Even those of us who are fans of the talented Chicago chef’s many restaurants deemed it too restaurant-y, with each recipe a Russian doll of subrecipes stacking up to a weekend’s work. No one could have described Paul Kahan’s first cookbook as simple. For all the muss and fuss so many cookbooks require, Henry’s one-and-done approach produces food that’s comforting on multiple levels, all necessary. And poussins get an Indonesian marinade-cum-sauce that Henry efficiently introduces as “Sticky, messy, quick.” She even riffs on American baked beans, albeit with the addition of pork belly. A dish of butter-roasted eggplant and tomatoes with juice-plumped freekeh is jolted by the complex Ethiopian sauce called koch-kocha. So into the roasting pan - sheet pans are rare in the U.K., according to Henry - goes a whole cauliflower, to be served with pistachio and preserved-lemon relish and a tahini sauce. The Brits have long been at ease incorporating international flavors into their cooking (culinary colonialism, you could say). Even the subtitle of her new book is a warm bath with a cup of tea: FROM THE OVEN TO THE TABLE: Simple Dishes That Look After Themselves (Mitchell Beazley, 240 pp., $29.99 ). The award-winning British food writer Diana Henry is the most reassuring of recipe writers, offering deliciousness, comfort and ease in these twitchy times. And her tahini caramel tart justifiably earns its parenthetical description as “the Gal Gadot of tarts.” With this book, Sussman will most likely prove to be a new kind of Amazon warrior goddess.ĭiana Henry’s roasted eggplant and tomatoes.
Her recipes are personal, playful and always approachable, be it the “magical hummus” taught to her by a famous Tel Aviv chef or a grilled chicken and corn salad with the avocado-za’atar green goddess dressing I now make in bulk. Sussman had visited and occasionally lived in Israel since childhood, becoming “all the more smitten with the edible life here” as the food scene went from nonstop hummus and falafel to one of international interest. SABABA: Fresh, Sunny Flavors From My Israeli Kitchen (Avery, 368 pp., $35 ) is a breath of fresh, sunny air. Whether we have her therapist or her now-husband, for whom she moved to Israel in 2015, to thank, we should be grateful.
NEWTON KANSAN HOLIDAY COOKBOOK PROFESSIONAL
(Don’t think I’m exaggerating: A handful of recent chefs’ books are so willfully uncookable they veer toward fantasy fiction.) Instead, let’s step into the well-worn groove that professional food writers, private chefs, YouTube stars and octogenarian nonnas have walked between counter, stove and table.Īdeena Sussman has been a co-author of 11 cookbooks, including two best sellers with Chrissy Teigen, but now she’s going solo. So restaurant cookbooks, with their chefsplaining and impossible-to-recreate recipes, take up less of this season’s pile. The algorithm has spoken: Today’s home cooks want books written by those who cook at home.
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